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The French Revolution’s Sans-Culottes
During the chaos and hope of the late 18th century, French revolutionaries made a bold statement—not just with their words, but with what they wore. The working-class “sans-culottes” refused to wear the knee-breeches (culottes) of the aristocracy, instead embracing full-length trousers. This was far more than a simple fashion choice; it was a defiant rejection of elite privilege and a vivid symbol of equality. By choosing trousers, these revolutionaries set themselves apart from those in power and marked their allegiance to the people. Their clothing became a kind of uniform for rebellion, instantly identifying them as fighters for justice. The visual impact was striking, fueling unity among those seeking to overthrow the old order. Even today, historians point to the sans-culottes’ attire as an early example of how clothing can send a powerful political message.
The Suffragette White (Early 1900s)
In the early 20th century, suffragettes in the U.S. and U.K. cleverly used white clothing to counteract the harsh stereotypes painted by their opponents. White, long associated with purity and virtue, became the color of choice for women demanding the right to vote. This simple, unified look made their marches instantly recognizable and helped shift public perception. It wasn’t just about looking good—it was strategic, intended to show that these women were dignified and deserving of citizenship. When U.S. Congresswomen wore white to the State of the Union in 2020, they were tapping into this deep well of symbolism, highlighting the ongoing fight for gender equality. The suffragettes’ use of color became a rallying cry that echoed far beyond their era and is still referenced in contemporary protests for women’s rights.
Zoot Suits of the 1940s
In the 1940s, the streets of Los Angeles and other American cities saw young Mexican-American, African-American, and Filipino-American men donning zoot suits—outfits with oversized jackets and billowing pants. This exaggerated style was more than a fashion trend; it was a badge of cultural pride and a stand against forced assimilation. Wearing a zoot suit was risky, as it drew hostility and sometimes violence, culminating in the notorious Zoot Suit Riots of 1943. During these riots, servicemen and police targeted young men in zoot suits, tearing off their clothes as a form of humiliation and punishment. Despite the danger, the zoot suit persisted as a symbol of defiance and solidarity among marginalized groups. It remains an iconic example of how fashion can become a flashpoint for larger social conflicts.
The Black Panthers’ Uniforms
The Black Panther Party, rising to prominence in the 1960s and 70s, understood the power of a unified image. Members wore black leather jackets, berets, and sunglasses, creating a look that was instantly recognizable and intimidating to opponents. This deliberate choice wasn’t just about looking cool—it created a sense of solidarity and strength among members and supporters. The Panthers’ style challenged the mainstream narrative about Black Americans, presenting them as empowered and unafraid. Their fashion became a visual shorthand for the movement’s ideals of self-defense and resistance against police brutality. The look has been referenced and revived many times since, testifying to its lasting impact on both fashion and activism.
Punk Fashion in 1970s Britain
The punk movement exploded onto the scene in 1970s Britain as a direct response to social and economic turmoil. Young people, angry with the system, found a new way to express their frustration—through their clothes. Ripped shirts, safety pins, and spiked hair weren’t just shocking; they were a middle finger to the establishment. Designers like Vivienne Westwood and bands like the Sex Pistols turned punk fashion into an international symbol of rebellion. Wearing punk clothing was a way to say, “I don’t fit your mold, and I don’t want to.” The movement’s wild styles have echoed through decades of youth culture, proving that fashion can be a weapon in the fight for social change.
Anti-Apartheid “Struggle T-Shirts” in South Africa
During apartheid in South Africa, public protest was often met with brutal government crackdowns. Activists found a new way to speak out—by wearing T-shirts emblazoned with banned images, slogans, and political symbols. These “struggle T-shirts” became walking billboards for the cause of equality and liberation. They were easy to produce, cheap to distribute, and impossible to ignore. Wearing one could be dangerous, as police viewed them as acts of subversion, but the shirts united people across communities and backgrounds. The movement turned ordinary clothing into a symbol of extraordinary courage, helping keep the hope for freedom alive until apartheid’s collapse in the 1990s.
Tiananmen Square Protesters Wearing White (1989)
In 1989, the world watched as Chinese students and citizens gathered in Tiananmen Square to demand democratic reforms. Many wore white—the color of mourning in Chinese culture. This subtle but powerful choice signified both grief for their country and a yearning for change. The sea of white garments created a haunting, memorable image that spread across the globe, even as the Chinese government tried to silence the movement. The symbolism of white clothing continued to resonate in later protests, a quiet yet unmistakable call for justice. The memory of those demonstrations, and the meaning behind the white clothing, still echoes in Chinese activism today.
Hijab as Resistance
The hijab—a simple headscarf—has become a lightning rod for political struggle in various countries. In Iran’s 1979 revolution, wearing the hijab became a way for women to assert their identity and values in a rapidly changing society. In sharp contrast, in places like France, where secular laws restrict religious dress, some women have chosen the hijab as a defiant symbol of personal freedom and resistance to government control. The hijab’s role as a form of rebellion or conformity changes depending on the political landscape, but it always carries deep personal and political meaning. Women have turned this piece of fabric into a statement about autonomy, faith, and the right to choose.
#BlackLivesMatter and Protest Fashion
The rise of the #BlackLivesMatter movement in the 2010s and 2020s brought a new form of protest fashion to the streets and social media. T-shirts, hoodies, and masks bearing slogans like “I Can’t Breathe” and “Say Their Names” became tools for activism and remembrance. These clothes transformed individuals into walking statements, spreading awareness of racial injustice far beyond the protests themselves. The visibility of these slogans on clothing made it harder for the public and the media to ignore the movement’s message. Protest fashion in this era isn’t just about style—it’s about solidarity, visibility, and the urgent demand for change. Clothing has become a canvas for activism, leaving a mark on both fashion and the fight for justice.
Final Note
This gallery of moments shows that throughout history, fashion has been far more than fabric and thread—it has been a powerful tool for resistance, unity, and change.
Besides founding Festivaltopia, Luca is the co founder of trib, an art and fashion collectiv you find on several regional events and online. Also he is part of the management board at HORiZONTE, a group travel provider in Germany.
